Thursday, March 8, 2012

CONFESSION: i spelled the name of my blog wrong... nkhani means story in chichewa. nkehani means absolutely nothing.

times up for me and malawi.. for now... and this afternoon will be my last trek to and from work.. last time i have to hold my breath and cross the Mudi River gushing with shit and garbage, and the last time i have to push my way through the hawkers and street urchins lounging outside the national bank.

dreading today. not the walk, but getting to the office. not very good at saying goodbye. to be honest, i'm such a cowardly lion about the whole process that i usually just go for a casual 'see you later' and convince myself that i will see whomever it is at some future point. and, despite the uncertainty of the reunion's time and place, i almost definitely will see whomever it is later. so its okay

this is different. i wont actually see 99% of the people that i have spent the past 6 months with ever again.








the history of africa is speckled with the comings and goings of this and that dictator, and the periodic occupations of every european nation that ever owned a steamship. constantly, and almost rhythmically, regimes grow, saviors turn to slaughterers, unrest turns to revolution and a new regime rises from the ashes. over and over, africa's people are promised the world by powerful foreigners and abandoned to pick up the pieces once they've gotten what they wanted.


 thats why i feel like a traitor. 


and thats why just thinking about saying goodbye this afternoon feels like a punch in the stomach. but thats also how i know, that even though i'm leaving now.. i'll be back.








tionana malawi. zikomo ndi mutsale bwino 
(see you later malawi. thank you and stay well) 





ps. last day of work= last day of internet.  but not the last day of africa. i'm leaving malawi on saturday and then rambling through tanzania. i'll fill you in if /when i can along the way. check back in a few weeks 





Tuesday, March 6, 2012

ohhh happy day







Domwe is a beauuutifull little island in the lake owned by the national parks. you have to arrive by boat- either kayak your self out, or hire the boat from Chembe village to transport you and your kitundu (luggage)- and there's no lodge, but instead, what is probably the most scenic and most luxuriously outfitted campsite i've ever seen. 

so, since last week was my birthday, the last official day of my contract, and conveniently enough the end of term for luke and joshua, we all took a 5 day vacation....
my malawi boys (luke and joshua) absolutely despise the beach, water, sunshine, snorkeling, kayaking etc etc. so we had a really miserable time. 








 the night we arrived was my actual brithday, so we watched the sunset and ate cake ( the one that Frank made before i left, which was apparently supposed to be a surprise)  from the lakeside 'dining room' 










we also learned that Skittles the Skink likes birthday cake too.... 


after travelling alone for months on end and getting used to spending far too much time stuck in my own head, it was great to have josh and luke serving as extra-strength dull moment repellent. 


and besides the boys. there were also baboons civet cats and giant water monitors lurking... kept things interesting, especially after dark. 

Monday, March 5, 2012

domwe island preview

 back from the birthday camping adventure. cant describe the amazingness, so i'll just show you... tomorrow. 


today i have to nurse myself back from a nasty ear infection ( lake water, bacteria, fungus.. who knows? i dont, and neither did the useless malawian "doctor" at the chipatala today)


but heres something to whet your taste buds until i have the energy for a serious uploading session