Friday, September 23, 2011

Back from the trip: Karonga and Chitipa

Got off the bus in Karonga to a swarm of sweaty men shouting “ Hey! Sister! Taxi? Where are you going? Let me take you” Then once it was clear that I didn’t need a ride, the shouts changed course. “Mzungu! Be my sweetie. Talk to me, Baby. Be my girlfriend. Auntie! Mzungu!”  Infuriating. I’m learning to master the art of the cold shoulder.

Karonga is a bustling trading center close to the Tanzanian border. A sort of frontier town, mostly men, rude, loud, aggressive. Its like the wild west of Malawi. The streets are teeming with bicycles that will carry you anywhere in the town for 50 kwacha, but will run you over if you’re not careful.

But its bursting with life as captivating as the patterns of chitenji cloth sold in the market stalls. New buildings are sprouting up like weeds. In a few months it will be a brand new town.  So excited to see this kind of growth and commerce. A breath of fresh air.

Got off the bus in Chiitipa to a deserted dirt street of derelict buildings and a severely bruised butt. Stark contrast to Karonga. The road to Chitipa has yet to be finished, and its completion is apparently a common political campaign promise. The road project is funded by China so the hills between the two cities are filled with Chinese road workers and Malawian miners who labor in the nearby uranium mines.

1 comment:

  1. Hi,
    I would be visiting Karonga in 3 weeks and would like to see Chitipa too before i get to Lilongwe.
    Since you have been there already,can you please recommend me an lodging with good security in Karonga and Chitipa and the buses to take to Chitipa from Karonga.
    I would be greatful for any info you will help me with.
    You can email me at lioncoast@gotmail.de
    Thank you

    ReplyDelete