Mulanje Massif the tallest mountain in Malawi, lies about 45 minutes -on a good day- south of Blantyre, surrounded by tea plantations, free standing, looming over farm plains, visible for miles. I started off from the Likhubula Forest trailhead at 7am last Sunday. Robert, my guide, warned me that on the way up the path was 'steep steep'. So in the 36 degree celsius heat (October is apparently the hottest month here) we panted up the slope past tiger-striped rock faces, black monkeys (they're actually gray, but whatever), and low-lying cloud banks trapped in the folds between the peaks. Super cool factiod: during his travels through Africa, Tolkien climbed Mulanje and it was there that he was inspiried to write the Lord of the Rings. Four hours later we reached Chambe Plateau and, (it honestly could't have been possible for the place to be any more Middle-earthly) watched the most maginifcent thunderstorm roll in. Robert calls thunder tremors, so I was paraniod about earthquakes for a few minutes before we figured out the word discrepancy. Took a different route down. . through the rainforest. along the waterfall.
Local myths warned of the ancestral spirits that inhabit the mountain. In order to be granted safe passage up to their dwelling place, one must first seek approval by praying and placing a small offering of maize flour at their feet at the base of the mountain. I didnt have any maize flour. Instead, left a little mound of cane sugar in the path, hoping the spirits might appreciate a little variety.
Seven years ago a Dutch girl a little older than me attempted to climb the mountain without a guide and was never seen again. No remains. People say the spirits kidnapped her. I think she got lost, since there are no trail markings whatsoever. Drank the water. Got...sick... then died of dehydration. Then again, she could have been bitten by a black mamba. Theres a pack of hyenas that live on the top of the mountain and descend every night to steal chickens from villagers, so they can account for no body ever being found.
I like my theory better. The spirits seemed kind enough to me.
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